FEATURES
Bare Root Planting
by Marcia Passos Duffy
The Pennsylvania
Horticultural Society plants hundreds of trees each year. This past spring,
volunteers planted 1,100 trees throughout the city of Philadelphia, and in
the fall they plan to plant even more. In total, the group has planted over
3,000 trees since it started its tree planting program five years ago.
The goal for these trees is to improve Philadelphia’s urban
environment by adding shade, reducing the heat island effect, reducing
pollution, increasing carbon sequestration and more.
Heaving thousands of 2-inch-caliper trees around the
city would have been prohibitively expensive and time-consuming if it
wasn’t for the age-old planting technique of bare root planting that
is less expensive per tree, and allows volunteer
participants—including children—to lift trees using just their
hands.
“Bare root planting is God’s gift to the
volunteer planter,” said Mindy Maslin, Pennsylvania Horticultural
Society’s project manager, who oversees the tree planting projects.
| Photos courtesy of Cornell university. |
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Volunteers transplant trees on State Street, Ithaca, N.Y |
Bare root planting was
widely used to plant trees before the late 1950s, and is done using young
trees that are dug and stored without any soil around the roots. It is a
technique that has fallen out of favor with the advent of the ball and
burlapped (B&B) technique and container planting that began in the late
’50s and early ’60s, which allows the tree to survive longer
out of the ground.
The advantage of costs and labor to plant bare root
trees are particularly appealing to municipality tree planting programs,
which are usually limited by tight budgets. Trees can be purchased at
one-third of the cost of the traditional ball and burlapped trees, and bare
root trees can be easily transported—even using volunteers’
vehicles—rather than hiring large trucks and manpower to transport
and plant the trees.
“We pay about $35 per bare root tree ... the
same tree would cost $150 if it were B&B,” said Maslin. Bare root
trees that are around 2-inch caliper weigh about 15 to 20 pounds; a similar
2-inch-caliper tree with a 24-inch-diameter ball would weigh about 300
pounds. “This makes a huge difference in how many trees volunteers
can plant, and you can even involve kids in the effort,” said Maslin.
Tree planting can be done by simply using shovels. To save even more money,
municipalities can also band together to purchase trees wholesale and then
distribute the trees at a centralized location.
| Photo by Mindy Maslin.
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| Tree Tenders Peter Verrecchia and Nick Giovannucci dip a bare root tree in a hydrogel solution. |
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The bare root advantage
Bare root trees are not only less expensive and lighter to transport, they also establish faster than
ball and burlapped or container trees. Bare root transplants come with up
to 200 percent more roots because the harvesting machinery for bare roots
takes up a larger root system than the tree spade system used for B&B.
Root stress is one of the major reasons that tree transplants fail, and
trees with bare roots often are left with the fine, absorbing roots when
they are harvested, giving them a better chance of surviving.
The risk of burying a tree too deeply is also lessened
with bare root planting, since the root flare is easily visible; the root
flare is often covered by soil in ball and burlapped trees. Girdled roots
can also be spotted more easily and remedied when the tree is in a bare
root state.
The downside to bare root planting
While the advantages are appealing, there are
downsides to planting bare root trees. Larger caliper trees (exceeding a
2.5-inch caliper) do not do well transplanted using the bare root method;
and some species of trees, regardless of size, do not make the transplant
well in bare root. Trees must also be planted when the tree is dormant, in
early spring or late fall.
The biggest disadvantage to transplant-ing bare root
trees is the short window between the time the tree is out of the ground
and the time it is planted. These trees must be planted within a few days
of harvesting. “If these trees freeze, or the roots dry out, the game
is over,” said Maslin.
While packed wet straw around the roots or dipping in
mud has traditionally been the solution to keeping the roots moist,
researchers at Cornell University have created a more effective way
using hydrogel, a synthetic, nontoxic slurry that looks like table sugar
when it is in its dry state and can hold several hundred times its weight
in water when wet.
“Dipping roots in the hydrogel slurry keeps the
roots moist and in good shape for a week or two as you work out the
logistics of planting,” said Nina Bassuk, director of the Urban
Horticultural Institute at Cornell University who pioneered the technique
with fellow research-ers. Bassuk said that the hydrogel slurry was
developed by Cornell in the ‘90s at a time when municipal budgets
were being cut and many cities and towns needed to go back to the bare root
method of planting to save money. “Dipping in hydrogel and then
bagging the roots in plastic buys time,” said Bassuk.
Another disadvantage of using bare root trees is the
scarcity of these types of trees for purchase. Not all species are
available in nurseries that carry them, and not many nurseries have bare
root trees available at all. Maslin said that her Pennsylvania-based
organization must order bare root trees from nurseries as far away as
Oregon (although she has found closer sources in New York state and Iowa).
“We purchase the trees wholesale and they are shipped via
refrigerated truck,” she said.
As municipality budgets shrink even further with the
current state of the economy, nurseries might see a thriving market for
bare root trees, said Maslin. “We’d love to see bare root
growers in our state. That’s what is missing—local
growers.”
The author is a freelance writer from Keene, N.H.
SIDEBAR 1
| Trees Species and Bare Root Planting |
| Easy to Plant Bare Root |
| Scientific Name | Common Name |
| Acer campestre | hedge maple |
| Acer x fremanii | Freeman maple |
| Acer platanoides | Norway maple |
| Acer pseudoplatanus | sycamore maple |
| Acer rubrum | red maple |
| Acer saccharum | sugar maple |
| Acer truncatum | Shantung maple |
| Catalpa speciosa | cigar tree |
| Cercidiphyllum japonicum | katsura tree |
| Cladrastis kentukea | yellowwood |
| Cornus mas Cornelian | cherry dogwood |
| Cornus racemosa | gray dogwood |
| Fraxinus spp. | ash |
| Gleditsia triacanthos | honey locust |
| Gymnocladus dioicus | Kentucky coffee tree |
| Malus spp. | crab apple |
| Parrotia persica | Persian Parrotia |
| Platanus x acerifolia | London Plane Tree |
| Prunus “Accolade” | Accolade flowering cherry |
| Prunus virginiana | Canada red chokecherry |
| Pyrus calleryana | Callery pear |
| Pyrus ussuriensis | pear |
| Quercus bicolor | Swamp white oak |
| Robinia pseudoacacia cultivars | black locust |
| Sorbus intermedia | European mountain ash |
| Syringa reticulata | Japanese Tree Lilac |
| Tilia cordata littleleaf | linden |
| Ulmus Americana and elm hybrids except “Frontier” elm |
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| Moderately Difficult to Transplant Bare Root |
| (Note: With the remaining species, there is better success transplanting in fall.) |
| Scientific Name | Common Name |
| Amelanchier spp. | serviceberry |
| Acer buergeranum | Trident maple |
| Alnus glutinosa | European alder |
| Betula spp. | birch |
| Celtis occidentalis | hackberry |
| Cercis Canadensis | redbud |
| Corylus colurna | Turkish filbert |
| Crataegus crus-galli inermis Thornless | Cockspur hawthorn |
| Crataegus viridis “Winter King” | Winter King hawthorn |
| Prunus subhirtella var. autumnalis | flowering cherry |
| Quercus robur | English oak |
| Quercus rubra | northern red oak |
| Quercus velutina | black oak |
| Tilia tomentosa | silver linden |
| Zelkova serrata | Japanese zelkova |
| Difficult to Transplant Bare Root |
| Scientific Name | Common Name |
| Carpinus spp. | hornbeam |
| Crataegus phaenopyrum | Washington hawthorn |
| Ginkgo biloba | ginkgo |
| Liriodendron tulipifera | tulip tree |
| Ostrya virginiana | American Hophornbeam |
| Quercus coccinea | scarlet oak |
| Quercus imbricaria | shingle oak |
| Quercus macrocarpa | bur oak |
| Quercus prinus | chestnut oak |
| Taxodium distichum | bald cypress |
| Ulmus “Frontier” | Frontier elm. |
| List courtesy of Nina Bassuk, director of the Urban Horticultural Institute at Cornell University, Ithaca, NY |
SIDEBAR 2
How to Dip Roots in Hydrogel
Get a large vat, like a plastic horse trough, to mix the hydrogel
and water. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for root dips
(Cornell recommends 15 ounces of hydrogel per 25 gallons of
water). Let the hydrogel/water solution sit for 30 minutes to one
hour; the consistency should be that of thick gravy.
| Photo courtesy of the Cornell University Urban Horticulture Institute. |
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| Dipping roots in hydrogel slurry. |
Dip the tree roots in the hydrogel slurry and do not shake. Put
the roots of the tree into a large pleated plastic bag (use pleated
bags so that the roots won't poke through the side). Tie the bag or
knot it to keep in the moisture.
Store the trees in a cool, shaded location until they are ready to
be planted. Do not wait more than one week after the hydrogel dip
to plant.Ask for a fine grade of hydrogel (1,000 micron particle size
or less), and do not purchase starch-based hydrogel; ask for synthetic,
cross-linked polymer hydrogel. Starch-based hydrogel
breaks down too fast for bare root planting purposes.